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| Thread ID: 127224 | 2012-10-10 19:02:00 | WOF Debate | pctek (84) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1306271 | 2012-10-12 02:59:00 | ... And you, that you would jump to their defense without even knowing the situation. +1 |
bk T (215) | ||
| 1306272 | 2012-10-12 04:00:00 | +1 -1 |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 1306273 | 2012-10-12 05:03:00 | I'm sick to death of the local VTNZ tossers failing my rear brakes... every 6 months either rear brakes too weak (on the pedal) or uneven. Fine on the handbrake. The physics of the thing is such that if the handbrake is fine, then the only way the rears can be weak (and the front great) is if the proportioning valve is kaput. These prop valves cost a bundle, so the only feasable option is the wreckers. Replacement valves are just like the one that came out. They're pre-set in the factory and are pretty fool proof (but a real bastard to thread 5 pipes into while it drips brake fluid all over the place). Eventually took the car to a different VTNZ station and it passed without any drama. Spewing mad with the local tossers. Get your damned brake machine properly serviced! Personally, I do care about safety standards, so I won't use a garage. I want the brakes properly assessed on reliable hardware, so I'll continue to use VTNZ, but the local station will likely never see me again. I've also had issues with rust near hinges (the rear hatch... as if that matters) and above the windscreen. Got a warning about a pending rust issue near one of the bonnet hinges and front suspension strut. Also had some fuss about rear belts not retracting swiftly enough to please the test nazi. What a waste of my efforts that was. |
Paul.Cov (425) | ||
| 1306274 | 2012-10-12 05:47:00 | Easy take the proportioning valve out and take it to pieces and throw out all the internal valves and springs just leave the case . Had to do it a few times. These valves can also stick when you are bleeding the brakes can be freed with a bash with a knockometer but if they they do it to me twice they get the internals gutted. They are there to stop the back brakes locking up under heavy braking. I am afraid if you are getting structural rust problems it may be time to ditch the car rust seems to snowball into too hard and expensive. What I have done with the seat belt retraction speeds is just go back there again and few hours later without touching them and they say yes these are OK now. Find a VTNZ that has only proper New Zealanders in it or go somewhere else to a proper New Zealander garage. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 1306275 | 2012-10-12 06:41:00 | I'm sick to death of the local VTNZ tossers failing my rear brakes... every 6 months either rear brakes too weak (on the pedal) or uneven. Fine on the handbrake. The physics of the thing is such that if the handbrake is fine, then the only way the rears can be weak (and the front great) is if the proportioning valve is kaput. These prop valves cost a bundle, so the only feasable option is the wreckers. Replacement valves are just like the one that came out. They're pre-set in the factory and are pretty fool proof (but a real bastard to thread 5 pipes into while it drips brake fluid all over the place). Eventually took the car to a different VTNZ station and it passed without any drama. Spewing mad with the local tossers. Get your damned brake machine properly serviced! Personally, I do care about safety standards, so I won't use a garage. I want the brakes properly assessed on reliable hardware, so I'll continue to use VTNZ, but the local station will likely never see me again. I've also had issues with rust near hinges (the rear hatch... as if that matters) and above the windscreen. Got a warning about a pending rust issue near one of the bonnet hinges and front suspension strut. Also had some fuss about rear belts not retracting swiftly enough to please the test nazi. What a waste of my efforts that was.had my rear brakes fail from being uneven from VTNZ. Solved problem by getting car retested at local garage that didn't have equipment to test them independently. If that makes sense. Cost me a new fee for getting it retested. As for your seatbelts, spray with silicon, gets them retracting in no time |
plod (107) | ||
| 1306276 | 2012-10-12 07:00:00 | had my rear brakes fail from being uneven from VTNZ. Solved problem by getting car retested at local garage that didn't have equipment to test them independently. If that makes sense. Cost me a new fee for getting it retested. As for your seatbelts, spray with silicon, gets them retracting in no time Why not pull the drums off, clean the brakes out, and re-adjust so that each side has the same number of 'clicks' backed off ?? It is not a difficult thing to do. Better than having uneven braking, a bit hazardous in the wet. Edit: the uneven braking could have been due to leaking cylinder, better safe than sorry. |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 1306277 | 2012-10-12 07:03:00 | Why not pull the drums off, clean the brakes out, and re-adjust so that each side has the same number of 'clicks' backed off ?? It is not a difficult thing to do.yeah did that, went for recheck and their still failed it. That's when I payed for it again at the local garage. Their saw why it failed previously, but said their testing equipment didn't test for rear brake unevenness only overall effectiveness | plod (107) | ||
| 1306278 | 2012-10-12 07:36:00 | Yep the garages use a tapley brake meter or US equivalent cant remember its name. I does not measure brake inequality very well, they can do a skid on gravel road to check equality. VTNZ use a rolling road brake tester. Adjusting slack up on brakes does not affect brake inequality much it just means more movement in the slack sides wheel cylinder, the mean pressure will still be the same after the slack cylinder catches up. If you take off the drums and cant find anything obviously different but they are unequal swop one brake shoe from left to the right or swop drums if they aren't handed wheel nuts. They raised the rolling brake machine unequality a few years ago to 30% so it if it fails it would be noticeable I guess pulling to one side under heavy brakes but you might not know because you are grabbing the steering wheel more firmly! |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 1306279 | 2012-10-12 08:39:00 | Yeah, I wondered for a while if my prop valve(s) were becoming stuck simply because I never stomp on the brake hard enough to make the darn thaings actually do some work, so I got really heavy on the pedal for a bit, and maybe it helped. I can hear the shoes moving and releasing if I give it a good firm pump, and on odd occasions I work the brakes hard while waiting at lights just to keep things moving. Personally, I struggle to understand why they'd want a valve that makes the rear brakes so feeble compared to the front brakes. If I'm gonna lose traction during an emergency stop, I'd rather let the rear slide and keep some steering (traction / control) on the front. Instead these prop valves are configured to ensure your front end loses control first. Where is the logic in that? Is it based on the assumption the average mug will lock things up and fail to correct for it? It'd be the first bit of gear they'd trash in a car used at Bathurst... bar the Holdens, which are trash within a decade anyway. ;) |
Paul.Cov (425) | ||
| 1306280 | 2012-10-12 19:23:00 | There’s an interesting article HERE (www.stuff.co.nz) which seems to confirm what I’d always suspected that it is actually the Nut behind the Steering Wheel that causes most accidents. ;) However, that’s not included in the WOF test. |
B.M. (505) | ||
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