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Thread ID: 31042	2003-03-10 04:14:00	ot - car stuff...	tango (2697)	Press F1

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
127034	2003-03-11 00:24:00	Yes, they are rear wheel drive. The smaller engined versions are the Triumph Toledo; they are the same basic body shape, but smaller - came in a 1500 and 1300 flavour if I remember rightly. The main reason the 2000 and 2500 were guzzlers is due to the weight they carried. I used to own (and now wish I still did :( ) a Triumph GT6 - Mk II, for those of you interested - it used the 2000 engine with twin Strombergs. It ran sweetly and was reasonably economical due to the smaller/lighter body. Have to disagree with you on the maintenance issue, goddy. If you can find (and afford to buy) a decently maintained British classic, it should cost not much more to keep it maintained than a jappa of the same age/condition.	antmannz (28)
127035	2003-03-11 02:12:00	The Triumph Mk2 2l and 2.5l were fantastic cars but the twin carbs and the heavy weight made them suck gas. This withstanding they won the old Mobil AK to WN fuel consumption for years in their class. The engine may have been fitted in some MF 35 tractors but not the Ferguson 24 26 28 hp TEA models this was from the Standard Vanguard. Triumph was from the Standard Motor car company of Coventry as well. The Fergie motor was 4 cylinders. The Truimph engine was from the Vanguard six engine. Truimphs are rust prone if it is an AK car forget it it will be rotten. The suspension is better than most Jap cars now. The drive line had 6 universals. The motors were super expensive to rebore. They were assembled in Stoke Nelson. The PI version was a crock of **** 10 yrs later they found the problem with the bosch jetronic fuel system causing hard starting esp warm it was battery voltage causing low flow from boost pump. Although the car is strong and doesnt crumple in crash the front hinged bonnet flys through the window and guilitines off your head!	tedheath (537)
127036	2003-03-11 03:28:00	In a crash you WANT the front of the car to crumple to absorb energy before it gets to you. If you don't believe me try running as fast as you can into a brick wall, then try it with a matteress off a bed standing up against the wall. Which hurts most?? The bonnet is a bit of a worry though ah??	rmcb (164)
127037	2003-03-11 03:39:00	>> Have to disagree with you on the maintenance issue, > goddy. If you can find (and afford to buy) a decently > maintained British classic, it should cost not much > more to keep it maintained than a jappa of the same > age/condition. Point taken, that a well maintained one will not usually have the high maintenance cost, but my point is, that for $500 its unlikely to be a pristine restored or maintained classic, as these would fetch more than that, and actually appreciate not depreciate.....	godfather (25)
127038	2003-03-11 07:46:00	Easy to tune, check float level as per book, get idle to 1000 rpm engine hot, lift piston 1/32 inch listen for a slight rise in rpm and drop back. Engine dies too lean adjust main jet out. Engine rpm goes up and stays up too rich wind jet in. Balance carbs" Remove aircleaner undo carb connecting linkage so each carb is on its own get peice of garden hose .5 m long put in same place in each carb and the other end in your ear. Adjust throttle stop until sucking noise the same. Even my wife could get it the same. Easy.	tedheath (537)
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