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| Thread ID: 43920 | 2004-04-01 00:45:00 | Component purchase advice | Miami Steve (2128) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 226369 | 2004-04-01 07:01:00 | More for noise than anything, one of my pet hates is being near a wind tunnel . With a good HSF on the cpu you may be able to forego some of the noisier additions like case fans . I have a personal preference for the Zalman CNPS copper coolers which have a larger adjustable fan which is separated from the heat sink allowing air to circulate to other parts of the case . I have two machines with these coolers, one being a mildly clocked Duron 950 with a GeForce pro 64MB graphics card which shares air from the fan (its fan was crapping out and making a horrendous noise so I ditched it) . Both cpu and card now run cooler than with the stock items and it's heaps quieter having only one fan in the case apart from the psu . There are other good coolers out there other than the one I mentioned but most sacrifice noise for heat removal . Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 226370 | 2004-04-02 02:14:00 | Glad you decided to DIY your new beast - you won't regret it :D >Do you mean that the fan supplied with the CPU should be removed and replaced by a heat sink? If so, is that possible without damaging the CPU . How is the standard fan attached to the CPU? The standard stock heatsink/fan unit just clips into the holder on the motherboard that surrounds the CPU so that it fully covers it . You insert the CPU first with the ZIF clip onto the mobo, then you attach the separate heatsink/fan to the board . If you wish to use another heatsink/fan instead, you simply clip that on instead . Remember you must also replace the thermal tape/paste if the heatsink is removed again . I also agree with going for XP Home instead of Pro if it is to be used only on a home network, save some dosh . Don't forget you can purchase a OEM full version of XP Home from whomever you get your components from . This is certainly cheaper than getting a retail version . The case is important, don't get a case that "will-do" for the moment . You don't want to have to swap out all your hardware a few months down the track into a new case . When I was picking out the bits and pieces for my system, the case took the longests by far to decide upon . You don't need a top of the line case, but try to avoid the real budget ones . Make sure the case looks and feels sturdy (try and view a selection in the shops) . Allow for expansion when it comes to 5 . 25 bays and how many free bays it has, the same for your hard drive rack . Most cases come with front USB ports now . Check out how many and what size fans the case comes with . If you don't like the power supply (wattage or brand), you can always put your own in . I eventually went for a iCute case (320W PSU) for about $130 . It looks fine (has blue perspex front piece) and the body is beige :p (this is good when it comes to colour matching CD-RW/DVD's, floppy drives etc) . Lots of room and a 12cm front case fan . It has built-in motherboard stand-offs which is really great . Have fun building your beast, and lets us know of your progress :) |
Jen C (20) | ||
| 226371 | 2004-04-02 04:38:00 | I would suggest going with AMD but hey, thats just my opinion becase Intel and Microsoft are s**king each others d**ks. Also I would suggest Windows 2000 if you want your hardware to be functional at all. Windows XP is just old sh*t with gift wrapping. One upside of not getting XP is you don't get spied on. Thats my opinion. Also make sure you have an FX "Ultra" gfx card as they're much better qualityif I am not mistaken - better gpu's I think. |
hamstar (4) | ||
| 226372 | 2004-04-02 04:40:00 | > Also I would suggest Windows 2000 if you want your > hardware to be functional at all. Windows XP is just > old sh*t with gift wrapping. One upside of not > getting XP is you don't get spied on. Win 2000 = No hyperthreading. Why sell yourself short? Lo. |
Lohsing (219) | ||
| 226373 | 2004-04-02 22:16:00 | > Also make sure you have an FX "Ultra" gfx card as > they're much better qualityif I am not mistaken - > better gpu's I think. the only difference between the FX5900 is clock speeds, there is no difference in quality. There is a considerable price difference between a FX5900XT and the Ultra. FX5900 Ultra = 450/850 FX5900 = 400/850 FX5900XT = 390/700 I reconmend the FX5900XT as it can now be found for under $400 and compared to other card around the same price it offers far better preformance.The only reason you may get a bad card is because you buy from a dodgey manufacturer, companys such as MSI and Leadtek are known for their high quality cards. |
Pete O'Neil (250) | ||
| 226374 | 2004-04-02 22:37:00 | > > Also make sure you have an FX "Ultra" gfx card as > > they're much better qualityif I am not mistaken - > > better gpu's I think. > > the only difference between the FX5900 is clock > speeds, there is no difference in quality. There is a > considerable price difference between a FX5900XT and > the Ultra. I thought the XT had slower ram compared to the Ultra? Lo. |
Lohsing (219) | ||
| 226375 | 2004-04-02 22:56:00 | What do you mean by slower? yes the ram runs a lower clock speed. Yes it use 2.8ns as apposed to 2.2ns but that doesnt affect preformance only overclocking. Many benchmarks show the FX5900XT only trailing 9800pro etc by a small margin. www.overclockers.co.nz look at some of the benchmark at the above site and you'll see with the exception of Aquamark that the FX5900XT preform quite well. Im not saying its an awsome card im just saying for the money it offers really really good preformance taking into account that a Gigabyte FX5900XT can now be brought for $380ish |
Pete O'Neil (250) | ||
| 226376 | 2004-04-03 05:10:00 | Hi everybody, Latest update - All components purchased, only change to planned spec being an upgrade to a Thermaltake 420W PSU. Unfortunately the graphics card isn't available until Monday, but I have just spent 2 hours assembling the remaining components. Putting power through the (mostly) completed box produced fans that spun and NO smoke or loud bangs. I need to get the graphics card in to see whether it will actually boot up. Fingers crossed :D Cheers Miami |
Miami Steve (2128) | ||
| 226377 | 2004-04-03 10:29:00 | OK. As it stands, I think I have connected everything I need to. However, I have a couple of reservations. 1. I have a Seagate SATA hard drive. This drive has 3 connections on the back. One is connected to power and another is connected to the SATA connector on the motherboard. What is the third connector? 2. I did not buy a sound card, but am instead using the onboard sound. When I installed my DVD ROM drive, I connected power as well as the ribbon cable. Should there not also be a cable from the DVD drive to the motherboard for sound? 3. The case I got has 2 front USB ports and there is a cable connected to each. Do they plug in somewhere on the motherboard (P4P800 deluxe) or do I need a separate add-in card? Cheers Miami |
Miami Steve (2128) | ||
| 226378 | 2004-04-03 11:01:00 | 1 sure the third connector isn't the jumber block ?? 2 yes there normal is however you can simply set your music prog to use digital exactracion and it will play the cd's without needing that cable. 3 the normaly plug onto the motherboard. check the connection and the pinout......i've seen a few different ones that arent interchangable. |
tweak'e (174) | ||
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