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| Thread ID: 46641 | 2004-07-01 02:01:00 | Off Topic - Bathroom Tiles | rmcb (164) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 248756 | 2004-07-01 02:01:00 | We have some wall tiles in our bathroom that we would like to change the colour of. I know that removing them will destroy the gib board they are glued onto, so is there a way of painting them that is durable?? We have a paint called Grip-Lock Primer made by White Knight, which is ment to stick to tiles but a test on an old tile is not looking promising. Any ideas?? |
rmcb (164) | ||
| 248757 | 2004-07-01 03:01:00 | The trick is probably to get them clean enough to paint. :D If they've been cleaned/polished with various clever spray on materials, they're probably coated with silicones and other things which are meant to stop grime from sticking. Such things are quite good at stopping paints from sticking too. I don't know what would make them paintable. Maybe the traditional "sugar soap" etc? Ask a paint company. They've probably got web sites/email addresses. |
Graham L (2) | ||
| 248758 | 2004-07-01 03:59:00 | I think surface preparation is paramount. Clean isn't enough, you need to sand them or etch them or something to roughen surface for paint to stick. Another option is to add another layer of tiles over the top if the existing ones are solid enough. 80 grit sandpaper might break the glaze up a little. I can't believe this is on PressF1. robo. |
robo (205) | ||
| 248759 | 2004-07-02 02:25:00 | Thanks The paint we have does say sand all glossy surfaces but sand paper hardly makes a mark. Will try my electric sander. Thanks |
rmcb (164) | ||
| 248760 | 2004-07-02 02:58:00 | Any success with sanding and paint, for that matter, will depend on the type glaze, the type of clay, ceramic, porcelain or earthenware, and firing process . Wall tiles will (should) not be double fired or stoneware but could be porcelain so the body of the tile is most likely quiet soft (a problem for paint in its self) but if they're good quality the glaze will be your main barrier . There are paints made for tiles, plastics and going over or refurbishing ceramic surfaces like baths . They usually require that the surface is keyed by scouring and that an etching or solvent primer is used . I practice they are usually pretty piss poor at staying on for any length of time, especially outside in UV, temperature changes, erosion and salts and, in interior locations like kitchens, laundries and bathrooms . You could overlay as suggested, key the tiles for the adhesive . But, IMO your best option is to remove the existing tiles and if the are adhered to a gibraltar board substrate get rid of it too . Unless you have the luxury of a humungeous bathroom the cost of replacing the gib board with new (water resistant) gib is sod all for a typical sized one . I'd actually recommend that you use Villa board or Tile & Slate underlay as a substrate in preference to gib . The floor is tiled too?, is it a wet area bathroom and what is the floor structure, concrete slab, particle baord on timber, ply on timber (upper floor?)? Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 248761 | 2004-07-02 03:01:00 | Sorry, if the tiles are porcelain the body of the tile can be very hard, up there with stonewear. Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 248762 | 2004-07-02 03:07:00 | LOL youre not working by any chance are you MP???? :p he didnt say he had any leaks............:D sometimes the simplist things cause such a roll on effect, that a simple tile change may cause a bathroom renovation by the looks of it. over lay is a good option but will the width of the old or new tiles cause probs? beetle |
beetle (243) | ||
| 248763 | 2004-07-02 05:04:00 | For painting, using Gib Aqualine would be the best option. Tile and Slate underlay is designed for what the name suggest - to put under tiles. | somebody (208) | ||
| 248764 | 2004-07-02 06:01:00 | > . . . use Tile & Slate underlay as a substrate . . . >>Tile and Slate underlay is designed for what the name suggest - to put under tiles . Is not a substrate an "under- layer" ? Unfortunately,they're on a wall, so it needs a layer "beside" (or between) the . . . oh well . R2 |
R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 248765 | 2004-07-02 08:22:00 | > > . . . use Tile & Slate underlay as a substrate . . > . > > > > Tile and Slate underlay is designed for what the > name suggest - to put under tiles . > > Is not a substrate an "under- layer" ? > > Unfortunately,they're on a wall, so it needs a layer > "beside" (or between) the . . . oh well . > > R2 hmm . . . obviously didn't make myself clear . I'll have another crack . If the tiles are going to be removed then a new substrate will be required because the old gib one will be, in part, stuck to the back of the old tiles . Aqualine IMO is only good if the area to be tiled is not a wet or utility area and there is not too much weight involved (probably ok with two layers in a typical bathroom) and you know the structure of the wall is stable, in that case then, standard gib or braceline will suffice and is cheaper . Putting another layer of tiles over the existing due to the fact that there is (usually) no knowledge of the quality of bond between the tiles and substrate or the substrate itself (have the correct joints to the floor and at wall/junctions been installed?) . Adding weight to the existing may allow you to find out how good it is though but, not the way you wanted to know . Adding a layer will require that any pipes or fitting must be extended to fit, shower enclosures, baths, vanities, etc will need to be removed or will be built in (not such an issue with the bath) . In the end it is advisable usually to start with a clean slate ;) beet, I do leaky buildings but they are by no means all I do . I'll be most probably be back your way later in the year, want me to have a look this time? :) Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
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