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| Thread ID: 51179 | 2004-11-14 00:38:00 | Off Topic - sharpening stones | Greg S (201) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 291523 | 2004-11-14 01:10:00 | > see > www.worldknives.com That's a fair run-down on sharpening, but I disagree with some of it. They reckon that no lubricant is required, whereas my experience says a lubricant (oil) is needed because it has a less harsh effect on what can be a relatively brittle edge. Anyway, I know how to make a good edge - I just need a damn medium to create it from. Thanks for the link though - I'll read it again |
Greg S (201) | ||
| 291524 | 2004-11-14 01:10:00 | Norton are well regarded for "stone" stones . They probably have them made in China now, but I'm sure they would still be better than the ones you find at Mitre 10, or the Warehouse . Again, have a look at an engineers suppliers . Their prices are probably more realistic than those of a fashionable kitchen shop . |
Graham L (2) | ||
| 291525 | 2004-11-14 01:14:00 | > > I use an old carpenters oil stone, probably cost > $20- > > 2o years ago, good stones cost real money. > > That sounds exactly the kinda thing I'm after - but > the point is, the stone needs to hold the oil and not > absorb it. The course side (or stone) will absorb more oil than the fine side. The stone will initially take up oil until it can absorb no more, in fact the surface can get clogged with oil and metal, especially if it is porous, heavy oil is used and the metal is soft. Every now and again I alternate oil with turps or kero (somewhat oily anyway) to keep the stone clean. If you exclusively use turps or kero the stone wears more quickly and will get out of true. I'm intrigued by the diamond ones GL has mentioned though. Using oil stones on kitchen tools is a bit messy and not a quick touch up type of operation. Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 291526 | 2004-11-14 01:17:00 | > Norton That's it Graham. Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 291527 | 2004-11-14 01:21:00 | >the stone needs to hold the oil and not absorb it. Until the stone has absorbed enough oil you will not get a film. A new stone can take quite a bit and then I just use some good old spit. |
mikebartnz (21) | ||
| 291528 | 2004-11-14 01:27:00 | > >the stone needs to hold the oil and not absorb it. > Until the stone has absorbed enough oil you will not > get a film. A new stone can take quite a bit and > then I just use some good old spit. Sounds reasonable enough, but what if I used half a cup of oil and it still didn't film on the surface! I'm suspecting that the stone I used in UK was a completely different material. Anyway, I think I'll just drown one of the suckers in a bucket of cheap motor oil and try again. And ps... my middle priced stone is a Norton - cost about thirteen bucks from Bunnings |
Greg S (201) | ||
| 291529 | 2004-11-14 01:44:00 | Sorry... not Diamond brand, I meant the diamond type - the stones with industrial diamond implanted in the surface. | somebody (208) | ||
| 291530 | 2004-11-14 01:46:00 | Some stores have professional knife-sharpening services. It might be worth giving one of those places have a try (I know some Mitre 10 stores do it, and many knife specialists also do it). | somebody (208) | ||
| 291531 | 2004-11-14 01:59:00 | A couple of points here..firstly try kerosene instead of oil. and secondly, if you have any half decent knives in the kitchen, then think very seriously about NOT using a stone on it. The good quality german steel knives usually hold their edge pretty well and all that is needed is a couple of swipe along a SHARPENING STEEL which will bring the edge back in order pretty quickly. You would normally only use a stone on these knives if there has been some damage to the edge eg chopping bones. Of course, if they are just common muck metal knives, then good luck to you! |
jeep (1673) | ||
| 291532 | 2004-11-14 02:13:00 | Oil stones need to be soaked in oil overnight or longer. In the "olden days", heated tallow was used to soak into the stone. The Norton Bear Brand stones used to come in 3 types, the Silicon Carbide Crystolon, The brown India stone, and the ultra fine white coloured Arkansas stone for that last super razor finish. I will read what it says on my Arkansas box.. "Bear Brand ARKANSAS is an ultra fine grit stone made of natural novaculite rock". It also says that Bear brand sones are oil filled at the factory. I usually use kerosene to loosen up the surface and float the muck out. Then re-oil with engine oil every so often When you buy a stone, take a straight edge with you to check for flatness. The cheapo Chinese made ones at your hardware shop are often warped and not good for chisel or plane blade sharpening. For my sins as an apprentice I spent 6 months tool and cutter grinding :) El cheapo knives made of "stainless steel" wont take an edge anyway. You need a hardened steel. The knife I carry tramping is made from hardened 440C stainless, 60 Rockwell C, and goes under the name Hi-Cut, made in Japan. It will take a razor edge finish and slice through supple jack in one go. |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
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